KBS GOLD STANDARD TANK SEALER
TANK PREPARATION:
NOTE: Our Tank Sealer is not recommended for plastic tanks.
All fuel tanks,
whether old or new, haveresidues and contaminants that need to be 
thoroughly removed before sealing. Sealing a tank without adequately cleaning will cause the new coating to fail. If a tank was previously sealed, remove the old sealer with a paint stripper PRIOR to cleaning.
CLEANING:
To begin, drain fuel from tank. Proper fuel tank sealing also requires that the tank be removed from the vehicle. Remove any fittings such as floats, sending units, and filters. Seal all openings with duct tape or cork-like stoppers. Using a 1:1 dilution ratio, mix AquaKlean with hot water and pour mixture into tank. Let tank soak but always rotate it at intervals to ensure AquaKlean covers all surfaces. (NOTE: Heavy gum and varnish build-up may require extended soaking times up to 24 hours or more and/or the use of a pressure washer.) Empty tank and repeat as often as necessary. After a thorough cleaning, rinse generously with water until the solution runs clear. Drain tank and let dry.
SURFACE PREPARATION:
Pour RustBlast full-strength into tank. Roll tank around to ensure all surfaces are kept wet with RustBlast. Repeat rolling and tipping tank every 5 minutes for a minimum of 20 minutes but no longer than 1 hour.
IMPORTANT: DO NOT ALLOW RUSTBLAST TO DRY.
After sufficient contact, drain RustBlast and rinse tank thoroughly several times with water. Allow tank to DRY COMPLETELY before proceeding. Drying is best accomplished by introducing forced air into the tank by using a shop vac, blow dryer, or fan. RustBlast will leave behind a white powdery residue which is a zinc phosphate coating important for adhesion of the tank sealer.
NOTE: Drying is a critical step. If the tank is not completely dry, the sealer will not adhere properly.
SEALING TANK:
Open Sealer and stir can thoroughly. DO NOT SHAKE. Pour entire contents of can into tank and slowly rotate or roll tank until all sides are EVENLY coated. Drain excess Sealer from tank for at least 30 minutes to avoid puddles before being placed down for full cure. If the design of the tank makes complete draining difficult, frequently rotating the tank during the curing process will help minimize pooling and puddles. Immediately use any left-over Sealer for exterior patching if needed. (NOTE: Remove any excess Sealer from threads and fuel lines before curing. Cured Sealer cannot be removed by any solvent.) When the job is finished, place remaining Sealer in can with lid off and let harden. (WARNING: If lid is put back on can before curing is complete, it may explode! Dispose of any hardened Sealer properly in accordance with federal, state, and local regulations.) Air-dry tank in a well ventilated area. Allow 96 hours for maximum cure. Wait 4-5 days before re-filling with fuel. PATCHING TANK (IF NECESSARY): Use our superior KBS BackBone Reinforcing Mesh for repair of pinholes that are too large to be plugged by our Sealer alone. Prior to patching, prep the outside and inside of the tank by using AquaKlean and RustBlast and allow the surfaces to completely dry. Begin by sealing the inside of the tank as outlined above. Immediately use any remaining Sealer to paint a thin layer on the outside weakened tank area(s). Using a suitably sized piece of BackBone Mesh, embed it directly into the wet Sealer and apply another thin coat of Sealer painting outward from the center. Let cure.
CLEAN UP:
Use KBS #1 Thinner for clean up and removal of any uncured sealer.
STRIPPING (IF NECESSARY):
Use a paint stripper to remove any old tank sealer. Pour stripper into tank and carefully rotate tank to allow contact with all sides.
NOTE: It may take multiple applications of stripper to finish the job completely. Old sealer may come loose in big chunks or small pieces so use a long tweezer-type tool to help remove it from the tank. After stripping is complete, rinse tank generously with water and proceed with Fuel Tank Preparation & Sealing instructions.